The Art of Disappearing Metal: Designing the ELLE Engagement Ring

Written by: Jean Dousset

In the world of fine jewelry, where tradition often governs form, I’ve always felt drawn to challenge convention. My journey into jewelry design began long before I had a brand to call my own. It was driven by a fascination with how materials interact—how metal, stone, and light could be orchestrated to create something timeless. But even in those early days, one idea consumed me: How can I make the metal disappear?

For decades, I’ve wrestled with this paradox. The metal in a ring serves a crucial structural role: it secures the stone and it provides durability, but it also competes visually. To me, it always felt like an intrusion. So I began experimenting with micro-diamond settings, trying to visually push the metal into the background, to reimagine its function without diminishing its integrity.

The result of that long-standing vision is the ELLE engagement ring, a design that doesn’t just minimize metal, it redefines the relationship between structure and sparkle. Rather than relying on the traditional “seat” and prong system, where the diamond rests in a carved space and is pressed down from four angles, ELLE opens up the architecture of the ring. The design contours and curves around the diamond in a fluid, almost organic manner, suspending it in space with a lightness that feels impossible.

Jean Dousset’s patent-pending ELLE design.

What makes this ring so unique is that it looks effortless, even though its engineering is anything but. The ELLE creates the illusion that the diamond is floating, untethered, yet secure. That aesthetic simplicity is a sophisticated balance of physics and form. It’s a design that asks the metal to do less, while still doing everything.

This philosophy has become a hallmark of my work. The ELLE ring has now surpassed the Chelsea design, known for its hidden halo, as our most beloved and best-selling piece. But more than sales, it marked a turning point for me creatively. It opened a new direction, one where minimalism meets meaning, and where customization plays a central role in how people express their stories through jewelry.

That direction continued with the Jane design, which built on the idea of openness and light but offered a lower profile—something our clients often request. People want beauty, yes, but also comfort, wearability, and something that reflects who they are. My designs aren’t about trends; they’re about identity. They’re about making something that fits into someone’s life while standing out from everything else.

Discover the Elle Jewelry Collection.

Jewelry, at its best, is personal. It’s luxury, yes, but not the loud kind. It’s exclusive because it’s intentional. It’s tailored to the hand that wears it, the story it holds, and the meaning it carries.

With every ring I design, my goal is not just to adorn but to express. And in stripping away the excess, in letting the diamond speak without interruption, I’ve found that what remains is not less, but more.

FAQ’s:

1.What Makes the ELLE Engagement Ring Different from Traditional Engagement Rings?

The ELLE ring features a unique, patent-pending design that minimizes visible metal, providing unobstructed views of your diamond. Its structure redefines traditional prong settings for a lighter, more modern aesthetic.

2. Is the ELLE Engagement Ring Secure Even Without Traditional Prongs?

Yes, the ELLE ring is engineered with precision to ensure maximum security while minimizing metal visibility.

3. Can the ELLE Ring be Customized with Different Diamond Shapes or Sizes?

The ELLE design can be custom-designed with your preferred diamond shape, carat weight, and metal color to create a ring that reflects your personal style.

4. How Does the ELLE Compare to the Chelsea and Jane Engagement Rings?

The ELLE features an open design, offering 360º views of your center stone. The Chelsea features a hidden halo for further brilliance, while the Jane offers a lower-profile design ideal for active lifestyles.